La guia de Cabo de Psaltis
(The Psaltis Guide to Cabo, most recently
updated February 2024)
This is not "the" ultimate
guide to Cabo. We simply want to share our own
perspective of this fabulous destination. All
information here is our bias. We're listing what we
like and hope it helps!
Our guide began many years ago
and has been continuously updated to keep it
current. Cabo San Lucas has morphed into a
genuine “destination,” as opposed the cute
little fishing town we found on our first visit
in 1993. It is both a good and bad. The degree
of Americanization has certainly impacted the
Mexican “feel” for the town. We had always
enjoyed the fact that Cabo, unlike Puerto
Vallarta and other big-name Mexican
destinations, had maintained its local flavor.
Now it is more difficult to find that. Cabo has
become far more upscale in its restaurants,
shopping and overall feel. There are more cars,
more paved roads, more American restaurants,
more luxury items and more people than ever, but
parts of Cabo will never change. It is sunny,
warm and dry, which, for a Washingtonian, is
about as good as it gets. There is plenty there
for all, even if Cabo is more cosmopolitan.
As meal prices have
risen, we have ventured into areas of Cabo
that we didn’t know existed. Some of our
recommended places are the old “tried and
true” spots but we have also found
neighborhood eateries where the locals eat. It
has been fun, not always delicious, but
invariably cheaper than some of the
easy-to-reach places in the tourist areas. If
you like bargains we’d suggest you shop at the
local markets and spend a bit of time making
your own meals. Leftovers from huge portions
can serve as tomorrow’s lunch.
The current version
specifically targets places that have more
“local” flavor. They have given us more variety
and helped our wallets a bit. If you are like
us, you may not go on vacation to save money,
but it doesn’t hurt to enjoy some local color
(and cuisine) for less than $30 for two. This
version is an eclectic mix of places, prices and
atmospheres. We do our best to be honest and
accurate. As with the rest the world, things are
always changing in Cabo, so what appears here is
true as of February, 2022.
Included are websites for the many
places listed. Some restaurants don't have
websites, so Trip Advisor, Google Plus or Facebook
are included as alternatives. In many cases, the
menus are posted as are opinions of other people
who have gone, so if you don't get enough
information from our thoughts, you have access to
opinions and ideas via the Internet.
Our expeditions provided
exhilarating times. These places are fun and, in our
experience, safe (health-wise). Many are located in
an area that is a mere 2-3-4 blocks off the main
drag, but it feels as if it is 50 miles from the
nightclub like atmosphere of the touristy section of
Cabo. Some of the places are very
basic and
speaking Spanish might help. We suggest that you
simply meander up and down Jose Morelos Street or
Leona Vicario Street (both come off Lazaro Cardenas
Street near the Porto Paraiso super mall) and decide
for yourself where you might want to eat.
Please know that things change in Cabo ALL THE TIME,
so don't be surprised if you look for something on
this list and it's gone! We are constantly amazed at
the turnover of restaurants in CSL and do our best
to keep the list timely, but frankly, that is
virtually impossible.
Eating in
Cabo
You are in for many treats in Cabo
and here are the ones we particularly like. There
will be many choices, so if you don't follow ours,
you'll still do well. Just keep in mind that places
come and go. They also blow hot and cold, It is
always amazing to us how many restaurants we
previously loved have closed and how a given place
(can you say "Pancho's?") can be so erratic. We have
been in Cabo many times since 1993, and feel that we
can save you some time by going to any of the
following:
Our
TOP RESTAURANTS (new
ones listed in red)
SALVATORE on Zapata Street Click here for website
A local told us about this place and recommended the lasagna, which is the special of the night on Wednesday and Friday. We dropped in on Wednesday only to discover the place packed. We made reservations for the next Friday and weren’t disappointed. We ordered the spinach salad, which was easily enough for 3-4 people. The special, we’d been told, comes in large portions, so we ordered a single plate and the two of us could barely make it past the halfway point. The lasagna was tasty and the service was excellent. I’d recommend this to a family, as the price for our meal (as described above) came to $50 with wine. The place is very popular, so get reservations if you are headed there later than 6:00. Note: in 2022 we did not know if the lasagna "special" was on Wednesday and Friday, so you may need to ask. Rated—4 stars
MARIA JIMINEZ on Calle Narcisio Mendoza Click here for Trip Advisor
CAPTAIN
TONY'S on the
Marina
Click
here for
website
There are several little restaurants along the marina
and seemingly
more and more
each year we
go. Much like
the Baja
Cantina
(above)
Captain Tony's
is situated
right on the
marina so that
you can drool
over the
million-dollar
yachts sitting
in front of
you. A better
idea, though,
would be to
drool over the
superb fish
tacos they
serve. While
there are many
places in town
that serve
these up, we
feel these are
the best. One
"catch" (so to
speak) is that
they are only
available at
lunch time. Of
course there
are many other
goodies here
that will
please your
palate, so you
shouldn't feel
overly limited
if you head
there for
dinner. Rated-- 3
1/2 stars
PANCHO'S
on Miguel
Hidalgo
Click
here for
Website
Perhaps no place has had as many ups and downs as
Pancho's. It
is renowned
for having the
"most tequilas
in the world,"
but that is
hard to
believe. It
was a regular
place for us
early on and
it has since
had good days
and bad (like
many of us).
The breakfasts
still appear
to be a
bargain, but
at a trip a
couple of
years ago, we
were shocked
by our dinner
bill of $80
for a couple
of margaritas
and two
entrees.
Still, it's a
fun place, but
you might want
to check
prices before
entering. Rated-- 3 1/2 stars
GUACAMAYAS
on Lazaro
Cardenas
Among our many recommended restaurants, this one
probably has
the most
unique menu in
town. While it
is possible to
order tacos
and
enchiladas,
the menu here
includes
vulcanes,
sopas and
other things
that we cannot
find in other
places. The
usual chips
and salsa
starter is
also out the
door here--
they serve
cucumbers,
jalapeños and
cooked onions
as your
starter dish.
Frankly it's
quite a nice
change from
the usual the
chips, which
are so easy to
overeat. More
recently it
has been a bit
erratic, but
still popular.
Rated-- 3 stars
The restaurant is reputedly a former trading post and got its name from the owner who took an annual trip to the mission at San Juan Capistrano. We all know what happens there every year and you will not be surprised to learn that “golondrina” means swallow. The setting of this restaurant is lovely—a grove of trees that have been festively lit with spiraling lights make up much of the garden décor. The menu is posted on a wall next to the open-air kitchen, which affords you a clear view of the chefs, the flames jumping around and the beehive of activity. Two of us ordered the jumbo shrimp dinner for two and we were pleased. All came with four different dipping sauces. Included in the meal were a tostada salad, soup, garlic bread and a choice of potatoes, vegetables or rice. This place is not cheap, but well worth the cost. The setting is marvelous. Rated-- 3 stars
MARISCOS MAZATLAN on Narciso Mendoza on the corner of 20 de
Noviembre Click here for website
Located just off the main street,
this is a good restaurant for seafood. It is a bit
more expensive than average, but it is also easy to
find. As with other seafood places in town, you will
find the full gamut of fish, shrimp, etc, and the
decor is reminiscent of the "old" Cabo we found back
in 1993. If you are a fish fan, I would
recommend this place quite highly. Rated—3 stars
LA CASA DE ABUELA on San Lucas Click here
for Yelp
You will need to "get out of town"
to reach this place. It is a very cute, simple
restaurant that is probably family-owned, as the
name implies. I have eaten there twice-- once for
breakfast and once for dinner and found the prices
and quality to both be excellent. We had
chilaquiles, coffee, scrambled eggs, tea and some
tortillas one morning and I think the bill came to
less than US $10. It's not as if I drive all over
the place to save a buck or two, but the ambiance of
the place was rustic and charming. Rated—3 stars
A
Coffee House
other than Starbucks
CABO COFFEE COMPANY on Cabo San
Lucas Street Click here for
website
Two Americans who want to provide
quality espresso and want to support the coffee
farmers own this coffee shop. They buy directly
from organic coffee growers so that the farmers
receive more money themselves. The coffee is very
good. If you like mochas, they use Ghirardelli
chocolate instead of Hershey's, which we also
prefer. They have limited seating and only a few
little muffins. I still like this place quite well
for my “cuppa” and enjoy the alternative to
Starbucks, which has shown up on the main street
of town. Rated—3 1/2 stars
Other
places to eat that we have enjoyed, but just
didn’t make it into our Top 20:
CABO WABO on Vicente
Guerrero Street Click here for
website
This is a "cute" restaurant. Quite a
number of the eateries in Cabo try hard to be funny,
off-the-wall, unique or whatever adjective you
decide is most appropriate. At the Cabo Wabo, they
have a number of unusual drinks, food, including
breakfast specials. It can be wild at night (we've
heard) and is owned by Sammy Hagar.
LAS TRES ISLAS on Revolucion de 1910
Street Click here for
Trip Advisor
Highly recommended by several
locals, we tried this and found it to have a mixed
performance. Eight of us went and four of us liked
the food and four did not. The service was spotty,
as the waiters did not seem as responsive and we
would like, but the place was packed, is a good
sign. We will give it another try since we liked it.
It is on the periphery of the touristy side of Cabo,
which I liked.
EL PAISA on Leona Vacario
Street/corner of Alikan Click here for
Trip Advisor
Six of us went there and found
it be very, very basic with a limited menu. They do
have soups, quesadillas and tacos. Most items have
meat. No alcohol is served. The online feedback was
nothing short of spectacular, but we found this to
be all right. The conspicuous pluses were that you
can practice your Spanish and that prices are a
bargain. Tacos are served on soft tortillas and have
only the meat on it. There is then a help-yourself
bar with salsas, cheese, onions, guacamole, etc, to
"doctor" your tacos. It is similar to Los Claros and
Gardenias.
LOS MICHOACANOS on Leona
Vicario Street Click here for
website
This is a carnitas place, which
means it has a wide variety of meats, including some
that you are better off enjoying without knowing
exactly what it is! Some locals, who ordered for us,
took us to this place, but I am certain that
pointing and asking questions could also work.
SAN
JOSE DEL CABO
The “other” town in the
“Los Cabos” title is San Jose del Cabo. For many
years it retained its Mexican flavor, but
depending on which direction you take into town,
you will find that the big hotels and timeshares
have made a significant impact. The downtown area
very much feels like an old Mexican town with a
nice cathedral and many art shops, particularly in
the area known as the “artist area.” The heart of
that area is Guerrero Street and is well worth you
while to take a leisurely stroll thought the many
shops that have hand-crafted wares. It is a step
up from the more touristy trinkets in the shops in
Cabo San Lucas.
There are three restaurants in San
Jose del Cabo that we feel are sure things for your
visit if you plan to eat there:
FLORA FARM in San Jose del
Cabo Click here for website
If you want a unique experience, you'll want to go to Flora Farm. It is entirely organic and has a restaurant (a bit pricey) as well as cooking classes that are both fun and educational. I would recommend going to the website and reading more about this remarkable place. The history of it is inspiring and attention to detail is remarkable. We have gone to two cooking classes there-- one for chicken tamales and the other for vegetarian tacos. During the class, you will also hand-make salsa and guacamole. The class includes a tour of the farm and after it is finished, you are served the food that you, yourself prepared. You will also receive the recipes for everything you made. The only thing that takes a half star off the rating is getting there. It's a bit far and the final half mile or so is on a rutted, dirt road. Don't let that stop you! Rated—5 stars
LA PANGA ANTIGUA in San Jose
del Cabo Click here for
website
This beautifully appointed
restaurant is a part of the Mi Casa family (above)
and is worth the trip alone. It is housed in an old
hacienda and the entry way is already enough to lure
you in. The tables are arranged on a multi-tiered
patio giving more of a sense of privacy. The
lighting on the bougainvilleas and other plants is
inspiring, as is the food itself. We enjoyed a
variety of dishes and even though the bill was
substantial, we found ourselves not really caring,
given the enchanting evening we had enjoyed. It is
located in the heart of the old town on Zaragoza
Street, almost directly across from the main church
in town and a stone’s throw from the main plaza. Rated—4 stars
TODOS
SANTOS
Known for its many art studios and
shops, Todos Santos is now a mere 40-45 minute drive
from Cabo San Lucas now that the new highway has
been completed. The town, while touristy because of
it survives from the visitors, is a charming piece
of old Mexico. The streets are up an down hills and
many remain unpaved. For a delightful day outing,
this is a wonderful choice. Shortly before arriving
in Todos Santos (from Cabo San Lucas) you will pass
Cerritos Beach, which is another potential outing.
There, you can sit on the beach, have beers and/or
food and watch surfers. Back in Todos Santos, the
restaurant we feel is the clear choice is:
LOS ADOBES Click here for website
It is a small place and the food is
organic, elegant and reasonable. As it that weren’t
enough, the restaurant also has a stunningly groomed
cactus garden to view while dining or enjoy before
or after your meal. We particularly enjoyed the chiles
en nogada, a traditional dish prepared without
frying anything. There is a wide variety of items on
the menu but the ambience alone is worth the visit. Rated—4 ½ stars
PLACES
NOT TO EAT WHEN IN MEXICO
Cabo is being "Americanized" more
and more, so that you will find Subway, Dominoes
Pizza, Dairy Queen, Kentucky Fried Chicken and other
disgusting imports (such as the Hard Rock Cafe) that
mar the landscape on Cabo. I feel it's too bad that
Cabo has lost part of its character in order to
cater to tourists. We avoid these places as much as
possible and heartily suggest not going to the
places that are available in the U.S. for their
processed and predictable food. Instead enjoy the
unique places of Cabo. This is the end of the
editorial.
OTHER
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Just so you are aware of a
couple things that many inexperienced Mexico
travelers seem to worry about, here are a couple of
“little details” about your time in Cabo:
Relaxing-- We
mostly go to Cabo to RELAX, so our main
recommendation is to enjoy the weather, which is
nearly always sunny and clear.
Timeshares-- Unless
you are sure you want to buy (or are considering
buying) a timeshare, you should avoid the “welcome
breakfast," or any other variation on the rip-off
theme of cheap cars to rent, $100 gift certificates,
free breakfasts, or anything else that requires you
attend "a presentation." These people are relentless
(and even rude) and will NOT "take only 1 1/2 hours
of your time" to tell you about the wonders of
timeshare. They will easily suck up 2-3-4 hours of
your precious vacation time making you agonize over
spending lots of money. Trust us—you are better off
avoiding them. When you arrive at the airport, there
are two
rooms full
of these sharks and they will all tell you they are
"helping you with a taxi." They are doing that, but
will also cajole you into a "presentation." It’s
smart to march directly to the booth at the end of
the second room
(after customs) that is clearly marked "TAXI" and
purchase your ticket there. It is not cheap. There
are shuttles, but depending on the location of your
destination, it might take you quite a while in the
shuttle. It drops off other passengers. The shuttle
costs $18/person, while a taxi costs an astonishing
$80. We are in Cabo to be in Cabo, not to be in a
shuttle that is eating up our time for a "mere" $44
savings (for two). Just a thought!
The water--
it is ABSOLUTELY FINE to drink the water. I am
certain that the locals would not want anyone to get
sick from the water, so feel free to drink water
everywhere. You will usually see signs at
restaurants (or on the menus) that indicate that all
water is filtered and that all fruits and vegetables
are washed. Most time-shares have filtered water
systems so that drinking the water out of the tap,
brushing your teeth, etc., are all fine. If you
continue to have any worries, you can always
purchase bottled water at the markets.
Montezuma's
revenge-- another myth that cannot seem to
die. We have now been to Cabo about 50 times
(literally) and experienced only one episode of
anything that resembled GI distress. After so many
years, it is our opinion that Montezuma probably
visits all the Gringos who spend too much time in
the sun drinking too much alcohol. This is not
scientifically proven, but much like comments above
about the water, tourism has become such an enormous
industry in Mexico that I am certain all efforts are
being made to avoid people getting sick. You should
still rinse off any fruits.
Theft-- we feel
utterly safe in Cabo at all times. We don’t worry
about being held up or mugged. With the advent of
the “chip” credit cards, it is more difficult to
life the card numbers, which has been a problem in
the past. Most places bring the portable card
machine to your table anyway, so this adds to the
sense of safety. More and more people ask us if we
“feel safe” in Mexico. We do, absolutely. An article
in the Los Cabos magazine in February, 2011 cited
some statistics that may help you gain perspective.
Based on actual homicide rates, Cabo San
Lucas is: 12 times safer than Honolulu, 18 times
safer than Miami and a stunning 26 times safer than
Orlando. Feeling safer?
Money--
You don’t need to convert dollars into pesos before
you go—they are readily accepted everywhere, ranging
from taxis to street side vendors. Bring some cashUS
dollars, largely because you can only pay for a
taxi/shuttle/bus from the airport with cash. After
that, it is handy to have both one dollar bills and
five dollar bills—these are handy for taxis, tipping
people or buying little trinkets or gifts. There are
also plenty of ATM machines, which mostly dispense
US dollars. If you have an international credit card
(with a chip) that does not charge you 3% “foreign
fee” it is best to pay with that every time you can.
Restaurants and stores will typically present your
bill both in dollars and pesos and their exchange
rate is not as good as the one you get with your
credit card. Always pay
these bills in pesos,
not dollars. It’s a better deal. If you want to
include a tip, you can but it needs to be added in
before they run your card.
Grocery Stores--
there are several and each has advantages. A relatively short taxi ride away is
the Chedraui
Market, which is a real
grocery store with better variety of foods (fruits,
vegetables, etc). It has good prices and variety,
but requires some effort to get there. Across the
street from Chedraui is La
Comer. It is big, clean
and has the best produce we have seen. Costco is also now in Cabo
San Lucas, so if you are looking to buy in bulk, you
can do your usual Costco trip in Mexico now.
THINGS TO
DO IN CABO
There is a multitude of
things to do in Cabo. Our favorites are resting and
reading books that we have no time for at home. If
you are more adventuresome, here are a few things to
consider:
· Whale Watching--
Jan-March. various boats go out into the
Pacific--- day and evening
· Parasailing-- generally
available from vendors around the Marina or
Medano Beach
· Deep sea fishing-- marlin, dorado,
etc.-- nearly all-day events/can be expensive
· Sunset
cruises-- these are party boats with a live, loud
band and lots of alcohol.
· Glass
bottom boats/good to see fish, fun for kids
· Lover's
beach-- need to be taken out there by water taxi
· Waverunners--
readily available
· ATV's--
for into-the-desert adventure/these are guided
tours
· Snorkeling
and scuba-- some of the beaches outside of town
are best
· Golf--
world-class courses; stunning scenery, equally
stunning greens fees
· Horse
back riding-- either at the Hotel Melia or Pueblo
Bonito/just ask
· Glass
factory-- it was interesting and fun/good for
children
· Shopping-
there are many, many little shops all
over Cabo with nothing in particular that is
a "must buy" but there is plenty of bargain
jewelry, hats and souvenirs
· Porto Parasio Mall-- the huge
mall on the marina is very upscale and interesting
just to browse. It is
impressive with lots and lots of granite,
fountains, etc.